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Attractions & Activities: Tortola
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Beaches Beaches are rarely crowded on Tortola unless a cruise ship is in port. You can rent a car or a Jeep to reach them, or take a taxi (but arrange for a time to be picked up).
Tortola's finest and most accessible beach is  Cane Garden Bay, on Cane Garden Bay Road. It's directly west of Road Town, up and down some steep hills, but it's worth the effort to get there. This is the most popular beach in the B.V.I. (Beware of large crowds in high season.) You can rent sailboards, Hobie Cats, and kayaks here. There are also some seven places to eat, none finer than Quito's Gazebo, where Quito Rhymer, the famous local musician, sings 4 nights a week. Nothing is more romantic than listening to Quito's love songs drifting out across the sands.
Site of a campground, Brewers Bay is reached along the long, steep Brewers Bay Road. This clean, white-sand beach is great for snorkelers and surfers, and is a great place for a walk in the early morning or at sunset. You can see the ruins of an old sugar mill and rum distillery just past Luck Hill. There's also a beach bar here.
Surfers like Apple Bay, west of Road Town, along North Shore Road. The beach is rather narrow, but that doesn't diminish activity when the surf is up (the best surfing months are January and February). After enjoying the white sands here, you can have a drink at the Bomba Shack, at the water's edge. This place is infamous for its "Full Moon Parties."
Smugglers Cove, a beach known for the beauty of its sands and its tranquillity, lies at the end of bumpy Belmont Road, at the extreme western end of Tortola, opposite the offshore island of Great Thatch and just north of St. John. It's a lovely crescent of white sand, with beautiful palm trees and calm turquoise waters. This beach, a local favorite, is also known as "Lower Belmont Bay."
Mile-long Long Bay West, reached along Long Bay Road, is one of the most beautiful beaches in the British Virgin Islands. Joggers can be seen running along the water's edge; it's also a lovers' walk, particularly at twilight. Sunsets here for some reason seem the most spectacular in the B.V.I. Beach buffs sometimes linger here even after the sun sets, watching the waves crashing into the beach. Long Bay Resort is located on the northeast side of the beach. Many beachgoers like to book a table at the resort's restaurant to enjoy a meal while overlooking the water.
East of Road Town, Long Bay Beach East, reached along Beef Island Road, is a great beach for swimming. From the white sands, you'll have a good view of Little Camanoe, one of the rocky offshore islands around Tortola, as well as Scrub Island and tiny Marina Cay. This beach is especially good for shell collectors. To get here, cross Queen Elizabeth Bridge and take the dirt road to the left before you come to the airport.
Boating The British Virgin Islands are one of the cruising capitals of the world, and Tortola boasts the largest fleet of bareboat sailing charters anywhere. Head to The Moorings, Wickhams Cay (P.O. Box 139, Road Town, B.V.I., tel. 800/535-7289 in the U.S., or 284/494-2332). You can choose from a fleet of sailing yachts, which can accommodate up to four couples in comfort and style. Depending on your nautical knowledge and skills, you can arrange either a bareboat rental (with no crew) or a fully crewed rental with a skipper, a staff, and a cook. Boats come equipped with a portable barbecue, snorkeling gear, dinghy, linens, and galley equipment.
The Moorings also has an experienced staff of mechanics, electricians, riggers, and cleaners. In addition, if you're going out on your own, you'll get a thorough briefing session about Virgin Island waters and anchorages.
Horseback Riding Shadow's Ranch, Todman's Estate (tel. 284/494-2262), offers horseback rides through Mount Sage National Park or down to the shores of Cane Garden Bay. Call for details Monday to Saturday from 9am to 4pm. The cost is from $25 per hour.
Organized Tours One of the most visible real-estate development companies in Tortola, Romney Associates, maintains a division called Travel Plan Tours, Romasco Place, Wickhams Cay 1, Road Town (tel. 284/494-2872). This division organizes 3 1/2-hour tours that cover the picturesque highlights of Tortola for a fee of $25 per person, plus an extra $5 per person if you want to extend the tour with a hill climb in the rain forest. A minimum of four participants is required. The company also offers several other excursions. Snorkeling tours cost $28 per person for 2 1/2-hours, or $42 per person for a full day (with lunch included). A half-day sailing tour aboard a catamaran goes from Tortola to either Peter Island or Norman Island and costs $50 per person; a full-day tour to as far away as The Baths at Virgin Gorda costs $80 per person (lunch is included). And a half-day deep-sea fishing excursion, with equipment, for four fishers and up to two "nonfishing observers" costs $520.
You can also take a tour of the island by taxi. A 2-hour taxi tour costs $45 for two passengers or $55 for three. To call a taxi in Road Town, dial tel. 284/494-2322; on Beef Island, tel. 284/495-2378.
Parks
No visit to Tortola is complete without a trip to Sage Mountain National Park, a national park rising to and elevation of 1,780 feet. Here, you'll find traces of a primeval rain forest, as well as great views of the neighboring islets and cays. It's a great place for a picnic.
Before you head out, stop by the tourist office in Road Town to pick up a brochure called Sage Mountain National Park. It gives directions to the forest (where there's a parking lot), and has an outline of the main trails through the park.
The 92-acre park was established in 1964 to protect the remnants of Tortola's original forests, most of which were burned or cleared during the island's plantation era. Go west from Road Town on Ridge Road to reach the park. Once there, a trail leads from the parking lot to the main entrance. The two main trails are the Rain Forest Trail and the Mahogany Forest Trail.
Scuba Diving & Snorkeling A good beach for snorkeling is Brewer's Bay. Snorkelers should also consider heading to the islet of Marina Cay, or taking an excursion to Cooper Island, across the Sir Francis Drake Channel. Underwater Safaris leads expeditions to both sites.
But the best choice for a snorkeling trip is High Sea Adventures (tel. 284/495-1300; fax 284/495-1301; Email: highsea@caribsurf.com), led by one of Tortola's best charter captains, Capt. Roy. The company expanded this year to include Anegada day trips. The excursions are designed to make any level of swimmer feel comfortable. Capt. Roy patiently spends all his time in the water pointing out the fascinating underwater plants, coral, and countless species of colorful marine life. Make sure to ask him about the parrot fish "poop" (it's how coral is "made.") Equipment rental is included, or you can bring your own. Capt. Roy even throws in his special Tropical Punch on the way home.
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