Early in the 16th century, this palace was built by James IV adjacent to an Augustinian abbey David I had established in the 12th century. The nave of the abbey church, now in ruins, still remains, but only the north tower of James's palace is left. Most of what you see was built by Charles II after Scotland and England were united in the 17th century. The palace suffered long periods of neglect, though it basked in glory at the ball thrown by Bonnie Prince Charlie in the mid-18th century, during the peak of his feverish (and doomed) optimism about uniting the Scottish clans in their struggle against the English. Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip reside here whenever they visit Edinburgh; when they're not in residence, the palace is open to visitors. The old wing was the scene of Holyroodhouse's most dramatic incident. Mary Queen of Scots' Italian secretary, David Rizzio, was stabbed 56 times in front of her eyes by her jealous husband, Lord Darnley, and his accomplices. A plaque marks the spot where he died on March 9, 1566. And one of the more curious exhibits is a piece of needlework done by Mary depicting a cat-and-mouse scene--of course her cousin, Elizabeth I, is the cat.
Highlights of the palace are the oldest surviving section, King James Tower, where Mary Queen of Scots lived on the second floor, with Lord Darnley's rooms below. Some of the rich tapestries, paneling, massive fireplaces, and antiques from the 1700s are still in place. The Throne Room and other drawing rooms are still used for state occasions. In the rear of the palace is the richly furnished King's Bedchamber. The Picture Gallery boasts many portraits of Scottish monarchs by Dutch artist Jacob De Witt, who in 1684 signed a contract to turn out one potboiler portrait after another at the rate of one a week for 2 years. However, don't take all the portraits too seriously: Some of these royal figures may never have existed, and the likenesses of some aren't known, so the portraits are from the artist's imagination.
Behind Holyroodhouse begins Edinburgh's largest park, Holyrood Park. With rocky crags, a loch, sweeping meadows, and the ruins of a chapel, it's a wee bit of the Scottish countryside in the city. It's a great place for a picnic. If you climb up Holyrood Park you'll come to 823-foot-high Arthur's Seat, from which the view is breathtaking. The name doesn't refer to King Arthur, as many people assume, but perhaps is a reference to Prince Arthur of Strathclyde or a corruption of Ard Thor, the Gaelic for "height of Thor." No one knows for sure. If you visit on a winter morning, you'll think you're in the heart of the Highlands. Arthur's Seat dates from prehistoric times, and with some difficulty you can trace the remains of a quartet of forts, especially in the Dunsapie Loch and Salisbury Crags district. And you can see clusters of cultivated terraces from the Dark Ages, especially on the east flank of the hill, both above and below Queen's Drive.
Canongate, at the eastern end of the Royal Mile
Phone: 0131/556-7371 .
Open: Daily 9:30am-4:45pm, Sun 10:30am-4:40pm.
Closed the last 2 weeks in May and 3 weeks in late June and early July (dates vary).
Admission £5.50 adults, £4 seniors, £2.70 age 15 and under, £13 families (up to 2 adults and 2 children).
Palace of Holyroodhouse