Although its thrill rides (which include some of the nation's best roller coasters), live entertainment, shops, restaurants, and games get most of the ink, this venerable theme park (it predates Disney World) ranks among the top zoos in the country. This is a great place for the kids to see in person all those wild beasts they've watched on the Discovery Channel. The animals--several thousand of them--live in naturalistic environments and help carry out an overall African and Egyptian theme. Most of the animal habitats are much bigger and more open than what you'd find in a typical zoo, although the elephants and white tigers are sadly trapped on islands that are much too small.

The park is divided into 8 areas, each with its own theme, animals, live entertainment, thrill rides, kiddie attractions, dining, and shopping. A monorail train will take you from one to another. A Skyride cable car soars over the park, offering a bird's-eye view of the park.

Allow at least a day here, and arrive early--but try not to come when it's raining, since some rides may not operate and you won't get a rain check for admission on another day (but do ask if your tickets can be stamped for admission the following day, which sometimes occurs during slow periods). Bring comfortable shoes, and remember, you can get wet on some of the rides, so wear appropriate clothing.

You can avoid waiting in long lines, and save a few dollars, by buying your tickets in advance at the Tampa Bay Visitor Information Center near the main entrance. You can exchange foreign currency in the park, and interpreters are available.

Just past the main gate you'll come to Morocco, a walled city with exotic architecture, craft demonstrations, a sultan's tent with snake charmers, and an exhibit featuring alligators and turtles. The Moroccan Palace Theater features "Hollywood Live on Ice," which many families consider to be the park's best entertainment. Here you can also attend "American Jukebox," a song-and-dance show.

After watching the snake charmers in Morocco, walk eastward to Egypt, where you can see Anheuser-Busch's fabled Clydesdale horses; visit King Tut's tomb; and listen to comedian Martin Short narrate "Akbar's Adventure Tours," a wacky simulator that "transports" one and all across Egypt via camel, biplane, and mine car. Adults and older kids can ride Montu, the tallest and longest inverted roller coaster in the world, with seven upside-down loops, one of them barely missing a crocodile pit. Youngsters can dig for their own ancient treasures in a sand area.

From Egypt, walk under the monorail and out onto the Edge of Africa, the most unique part of the park. Here glass walls separate you from lions, hippos, crocodiles, hyenas, meerkats, and vultures among more than 500 African animals roaming freely on an 80-acre natural grassy veldt known here as the Serengeti Plain. After you've seen them close up, the monorail will take you on "safari" out on the plain.

Next stop is Nairobi, where you can see gorillas and chimpanzees in the Myombe Reserve, replicating their natural tropical habitat. Nairobi also has a baby animal nursery, a petting zoo, turtle and reptile displays, an elephant exhibit (sadly much too small for these giant beasts), and Curiosity Caverns, a simulated environment that allows you to observe animals that are active in the dark.

From Nairobi, walk into Timbuktu, evoking an ancient desert trading center with African craftspeople at work. Here you'll find several rides, including The Sandstorm, the Phoenix, and the Scorpion, a 360-degree roller coaster. Plan to have lunch here at Das Festhaus, a 1,200-seat, air-conditioned German festival hall featuring a lively musical show "The International Celebration" (be sure to arrive at least 15 minutes before show time to get a seat). The kids will enjoy the Dolphin Theater, with performing porpoises, otters, and sea lions.

After lunch, head to The Congo, highlighted by rare white Bengal tigers living on Claw Island. The Congo also is home to two roller coasters: the Kumba, the largest and fastest roller coaster in the southeastern United States; and the Python, which twists and turns for 1,200 feet. You will get drenched (and refreshed on a hot day) by riding the Congo River Rapids. There are bumper cars and kiddie rides here, too.

From The Congo, walk south into Stanleyville, a prototype African village, with a shopping bazaar, orangutans living on an island, and the Stanleyville Theater, featuring "Stars of the Future," a show about children. Two more water rides are here: the Tanganyika Tidal Wave and Stanley Falls. Serving ribs and chicken, the Stanleyville Smokehouse has some of the best chow here. This also is a good place to board the trans-veldt railway for a sightseeing ride all the way around the park and back, since you'll avoid the crowds waiting to board elsewhere (the air-conditioned train also is a good way to cool off on a hot summer's day).

From Stanleyville, the next stop is Land of the Dragons, where the younger set can easily spend an entire day enjoying a variety of play elements in a fairy-tale setting, plus just-for-kids rides. The area is dominated by Dumphrey, a whimsical dragon who interacts with visitors and guides children around a three-story tree house with winding stairways, tall towers, stepping stones, illuminated water geysers, and an echo chamber.

The last stop is Bird Gardens, the park's original core, offering rich foliage, lagoons, and a free-flight aviary for hundreds of exotic birds, including golden and American bald eagles. Catch the Bird Show here, and be sure to see the Florida flamingos and Australian koala "bears."

You can finish your visit back at the Hospitality House, which offers piano entertainment and free samples of Anheuser-Busch's famous beers (you must be 21 to imbibe, and there's a limit of two free mugs per seating).