This expanse of elaborate Qing-style pavilions, bridges, walkways, and gardens, scattered along the shores of immense Kunming Lake, is the grandest imperial playground in China, constructed from 1749 to 1764. Between 1860 and 1903, it was twice leveled by foreign armies and rebuilt; hence it is often called the New Summer Palace, even though it pre-dates the ruined Old Summer Palace (Yuan Ming Yuan). The palace is most often associated with the Empress Dowager Cixi, who made it her full-time residence. The grounds were declared a public park in 1924 and spruced up in 1949.

Essentials--The Summer Palace (tel. 010/6288-1144) is located 12km (7 miles) northwest of the city center in Haidian. Take bus no. 726 from just west of Wudaokou light rail station (1304, exit A); or take a 30- to 40-minute taxi ride (¥60/$8) from the center of town. A more pleasant option is to travel there by boat along the renovated canal system; slightly rusty "imperial yachts" leave from the Beizhan Houhu Matou (tel. 010/8836-3576), behind the Beijing Exhibition Center just south of the Beijing Aquarium (50-min. trip; ¥40/$5 one-way, ¥70/$9 round-trip), docking at Nan Ruyi Men in the south of the park. The gates open daily at 7am; no tickets are sold after 5pm in summer and 4pm in winter. Admission is ¥30 ($4) for entry to the grounds or ¥50 ($6) for the all-inclusive lian piao, reduced to ¥20 ($2.50) and ¥40 ($5) respectively in winter (Nov-Mar). The most convenient entrance is Dong Gong Men (East Gate). Go early and allow at least 4 hours for touring the major sites on your own. Overpriced imperial-style food in a pleasant setting is available at the Tingli Guan Restaurant, at the western end of the Long Corridor. Spots around the lake are perfect for picnics, and Kunming Lake is ideal for skating in the depths of winter.

Exploring the Summer Palace--This park covers roughly 290 hectares (716 acres), with Kunming Lake in the south and Longevity Hill (Wanshou Shan) in the north. The lake's northern shore boasts most of the buildings and other attractions and is the most popular area for strolls, although walking around the smaller lakes (Hou Hu) behind Longevity Hill is more pleasant. The hill itself has a number of temples as well as Baoyun Ge (Precious Clouds Pavilion), one of the few structures in the palace to escape destruction by foreign forces. There are literally dozens of pavilions and a number of bridges to be found on all sides of the lake, enough to make for a full day of exploration. Rather slow electric-powered boats may be rented; they are an appealing option on muggy summer days.