Guides & Advice  : Australia/South Pacific : 
Australia

 
Frommer's Guide
INTRODUCTION
ACTIVE PURSUITS
Bushwalking
Scuba Diving
Active Pursuits Frommer

Australia's wide-open spaces and great weather cry out to even the most dedicated lazybones. Most operators and outfitters listed below specialize in adventure vacations for small groups. Meals, accommodations, equipment rental, and guides are usually included in their packages, though international airfares are not. Where you end up spending the night varies depending on the package you select -- on a sea-kayaking trip you almost always camp on the beach; on a hiking expedition you may stay at a wilderness lodge, and on a biking trip you often stop over at B&B-style lodgings.

Abseiling -- Rappelling is another name for this sport that involves backing down vertical cliff faces on a rope and harness. The rugged, beautiful Blue Mountains near Sydney are Australia's abseiling capital. In the Margaret River region in Western Australia, you can do it as mighty breakers crash on the cliffs below. You can even do it in the heart of Brisbane on riverside cliffs.

Biking -- Much of Australia's countryside is flat and ideal for cycling, as Aussies call biking, but consider the heat and vast distances before setting out. There are plenty of biking trails. The rainforest hills behind Cairns hosted the world mountain-biking championships in 1996, and Sydney's Blue Mountains have good mountain-biking trails. On Rottnest Island off Perth, it's the only mode of transport from one coral-filled bay to the next. All major towns and most resort centers rent regular bikes and mountain bikes.

If you're interested in taking an extended trip, you may find a copy of Cycling Australia: Bicycle Touring Throughout the Sunny Continent, by Australian Ian Duckworth (Motorbooks, 1996) useful. This 224-page guide outlines short trips and eight long trips with maps and route descriptions. Any bookstore can order it, or it is available for US$2.55 from the Adventurous Traveler Bookstore (tel. 800/282-3963 in the U.S. and Canada; www.adventuroustraveler.com), or for £9.95 from the Quayside Bookshop in the United Kingdom (tel. 01626/77 5436; quaybooks@aol.com).

Remote Outback Cycle Tours (tel. 08/9279 6969; www.cycletours.com.au) takes novice and expert riders, young and old, on extended tours across the country. The distances are vast, but the trip is combined with four-wheel-drive travel. Itineraries include the Red Centre, the historic Oodnadatta Track cattle-driving route from Alice Springs to Adelaide via the underground opal-mining town of Coober Pedy in South Australia, and from Adelaide to Perth across the Nullarbor Plain desert and through the pretty Margaret River wine region in southern Western Australia.

Bird-Watching -- Australia's unique geography as an island continent ensures it has species you won't see anywhere else. It is probably best known for its brilliant parrots, but you will see species from the wetlands, savanna, mulga scrub, desert, oceans, dense bushland, rainforest, mangroves, rivers, and other habitats. More than half of the country's species have been spotted in the Daintree Rain Forest area in north Queensland, and one third live in wetlands-rich Kakadu National Park in the Top End. The Coorong in South Australia and Broome in the Top End are home to marvelous waterfowl populations.

To get in touch with bird-watching clubs all over Australia, contact Birds Australia (tel 03/9882 2622; www.birdsaustralia.com.au).

Kirrama Wildlife Tours (tel. 07/4065 5181; www.gspeak.com.au/kirrama) operates birding expeditions to remote regions in northern Australia from a base in north Queensland. Broome-based ornithologist George Swann of Kimberley Birdwatching, Wildlife & Natural History Tours (tel. 08/9192 1246; www.kimberleybirdwatching.com.au) leads extended birding trips throughout the Kimberley and the Northern Territory. Fine Feather Tours (tel. 07/4094 1199; www.finefeathertours.com.au) based near Port Douglas near the Daintree Rain Forest, operates bird-watching day trips and afternoon river cruises.

Something Different: Camel Trekking--Camels Down Under? You bet. Australia has one of the world's largest camel populations, and even exports racing camels to the Middle East. Camels were imported to negotiate waterless deserts in the 1900s but were later set free. They are now a popular way to trek the country. Short rambles of an hour or two in Alice Springs and at Ayers Rock are a novel way to see the Outback, or you can join extended camel treks through Outback deserts offered by a number of operators. Several companies in Broome lead guided rides along beautiful Cable Beach.

Canoeing & Sea Kayaking -- Katherine Gorge in the Northern Territory offers some spectacular flat canoeing. You'll find delightful canoeing on the bird-rich Ord River in the Top End. Katherine Gorge and the Ord are full of generally harmless freshwater crocodiles, but never canoe in saltwater-crocodile territory. White-water canoeing can be found in Barrington Tops National Park north of Sydney.

A growing number of operators all around the coastline rent kayaks and lead guided expeditions. Popular spots are the Whitsunday Islands in north Queensland, the cold southern seas around Tasmania, and Byron Bay, where you can take a 3-hour "dolphin kayaking" trip to see wild dolphins (and whales June-Oct) and "kayak-surf" the waves.

Rivergods (tel. 08/9259 0749; www.rivergods.com.au) conducts multiday sea kayaking, canoeing, and white-water-rafting adventures throughout Western Australia's pristine ocean and rivers, in which whales, sharks, dugongs (manatees), sea snakes, turtles, and dolphins abound. They also run a "sea kayak with wild seals" day outing from Perth. Gecko Canoeing (tel. 08/8972 2224; www.geckocanoeing.com.au) leads canoeing trips of 1 to 21 days from Katherine along remote Top End rivers between April and September.

Caving -- Australia doesn't have a lot of caves, but the ones it has are spectacular. The best spots are the Blue Mountains west of Sydney, and the Margaret River region in southwest Western Australia. For tourists who want to see caves and stay clean and safe (as opposed to spelunkers), the best caves are the spectacular Jenolan Caves in the Blue Mountains, a honeycomb of caverns bursting with intricate stalactites and stalagmites; and the 350 limestone caves in Margaret River, of which five are open to the public. Two are "adventure caves," which any novice caver (as opposed to an experienced spelunker) can explore on a 2- or 3-hour tour. You can also go caving at Olssen's Capricorn Caverns, near Rockhampton, in Central Queensland.

Fishing -- Reef, game, deep sea, beach, estuary, and river fishing -- Australia's massive coastline lets you do it all. Drop a line for coral trout on the Great Barrier Reef; go for the world record black marlin off Cairns; hook a fighting "barra" (barramundi) in the Northern Territory or the Kimberley; or cast for trout in Tasmania's highland lakes. Charter boats will take you out for the day from most towns all around the coast.

Golf -- Australians are almost as passionate about golf as they are about football and cricket -- after all, Greg Norman started life as an Aussie! Queensland has the lion's share of the most stunning resort courses, such as the Sheraton Mirage in Port Douglas, Laguna Quays Resort near the Whitsundays, and the Hyatt Regency Sanctuary Cove Resort on the Gold Coast. The Gold Coast has more than 40 courses. Joondaloop Country Club in Western Australia was voted Number One Resort Course in Australia by Golf Australia magazine for 2003. One of the world's best desert courses is at Alice Springs.

Most courses rent clubs for around A$30 (US$20). Greens fees start at around A$20 (US$13) for 18 holes but average A$65 (US$42) or more on a championship course. Koala Golf (tel. 02/9980 9073; www.koalagolf.com) offers escorted day trips and package tours to excellent golf courses in major cities and holiday areas around Australia. It has offices in Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth, Cairns, and Queensland's Gold and Sunshine coasts.

Horseback Riding -- Horseback-riding operators are everywhere in Australia. A particularly pleasant vacation is a multiday riding and camping trek in "The Man from Snowy River" country in the Snowy Mountains in New South Wales.

Sailing -- The 74 islands of the Whitsundays in Queensland are an out-of-this-world backdrop for sailing. And you don't have be an expert sailor -- the Whitsunday region is Australia's "bareboating" capital. Bareboating means you can charter an unskippered yacht and sail yourself. Even those without a scrap of experience can do it, although it's best to have someone on board who knows aft from fore. Perth and Sydney are mad about sailing; experienced sailors can head to the nearest yacht club to offer themselves as crew, especially during summer twilight races. The clubs are often short of sailors and most will welcome out-of-towners.

Surfing -- You'll have no trouble finding a good surf beach along the Australian coast. Perth and Sydney are blessed with loads right in the city. Other popular spots include the Gold and Sunshine Coasts in Queensland, the legendary Southern Ocean swells along Victoria's southern coast, and magnificent sets off Margaret River in Western Australia. Don't take your board much north of the Sunshine Coast -- the Great Barrier Reef puts a stop to the swell from there all the way to the northern tip of Queensland. Loads of companies rent surf gear. Beginner's lessons are offered at many surf beaches. Remember, surf only at patrolled beaches and never surf alone.

White-Water Rafting -- The best rapids are the Class V torrents on the Nymboida and Gwydir rivers behind Coffs Harbour in New South Wales. More Class V rapids await you on the Johnstone River in north Queensland, although they must be accessed by helicopter. Loads of tourists who have never held a paddle hurtle down the Class III to IV Tully River or the gentler Class II to III Barron River on a day trip from Cairns. The Snowy River National Park in Victoria and the Franklin River in the wilds of Tasmania are other popular spots.



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