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Frommer's Guide
FEATURES AND EVENTS
Introduction: Exuma Islands Frommer

Introduction to the Exuma Islands

The Exuma island chain is one of the prettiest in The Bahamas. Shades of jade, aquamarine, and amethyst in deeper waters turn to transparent opal near sandy shores: The water and the land appear almost inseparable. Sailors and their crews like to stake out their own private beaches and tropical hideaways, and several vacation retreats have been built by wealthy Europeans, Canadians, and Americans.

A spiny, sandy chain of islands, the Exumas, which begin just 35 miles southeast of Nassau, stretch more than 100 miles from Beacon Cay in the north to Hog Cay and Sandy Cay in the south. These islands have not been developed like the Abacos and Eleuthera, so they are relatively inexpensive, but still have much to offer, with crystal-clear waters on the west around the Great Bahama Bank and the 5,000-foot-deep Exuma Sound on the east, uninhabited cays ideal for picnics, rolling hills, ruins of once-great plantations, and coral formations of great beauty. Although it's crossed by the Tropic of Cancer, the islands have average temperatures ranging from the mid-70s to the mid-80s.

Most of our resort recommendations are in and around George Town, the pretty, pink capital of the Exumas, on Great Exuma. A community of some 900 residents, it was once considered a possible site for the capital of The Bahamas because of its excellent Elizabeth Harbour .

Nearly all the other cays are uninhabited or sparsely populated. Over the years, remote accommodations have come and gone on these islands. Today the only resort hotels, which attract mostly the yachting set, are found at Staniel Cay and Sampson Cay.

The cruising grounds around the Exumas, which are scattered over an ocean area of 90 square miles, are among the finest to be found in the western hemisphere, if not in the world, for both sail- and powerboats. The sailing rivals both those of the Grenadines in the Caribbean and the Abacos in The Bahamas. Which one yachties prefer depends on personal taste; each is Valhalla, if you're a boater. If you don't come in your own craft, you can rent one here, from a simple little Daysailer to a fishing runabout, with or without a guide. The annual regatta in April in Elizabeth Harbour has attracted such notables as Prince Philip and the ex-king of Greece, Constantine. The Exumas are often referred to by yachting people as "where you go when you die if you've been good."

For years boaters have known of a special beach, Saddle Cay, whose horseshoe-shaped curve lies near the northern tip of the small archipelago. The only way to reach it is by private boat; there are no organized excursions or tours (the Exumas are much too laid-back for that). However, if you own a boat, head for Saddle Cay, and you won't be disappointed when you see this totally unspoiled beach of white sands and tranquil waters. The cay is perfect for beachcombers, bird watchers and snorkelers--but don't expect facilities.

Snorkeling and scuba-diving opportunities draw aficionados from around the world to the Exuma National Land and Sea Park, a vast underwater preserve, and to the exotic limestone and coral reefs, blue holes, drop-offs, caves, and night dives. Dive centers in George Town and Staniel Cay provide air fills and diving equipment.

Fishing is top grade here, and the "flats" on the west side of Great Exuma are famous for bonefishing. You can find (if you're lucky) blue marlin on both sides of Exuma Sound, as well as sailfish, wahoo, and white marlin, plus numerous others. Other popular activities include playing tennis, windsurfing, and waterskiing.

The Exumas are among the friendliest islands in The Bahamas; the people are warmhearted and not (yet) spoiled by tourism. They seem genuinely delighted to receive and welcome visitors to their shores. They grow a lot of their own food, including cassava, onions, cabbages, and pigeon peas on the acres their ancestors worked as slaves. Many fruits grow on the cays, including guavas, mangoes, and avocados. You can watch these fruits being loaded at Government Wharf in George Town for shipment to Nassau. The sponge industry is being revived locally; this product of the sea is found in shallow waters and creeks to the south side of the Exumas.

On most maps this chain is designated as the "Exuma Cays," but only two of the main islands--Great Exuma and Little Exuma--bear the name. A single-lane bridge connects those two cays, where the major communities are concentrated.



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