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Introduction: Tarpum Bay
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Introduction to Tarpum Bay If you're looking for an inexpensive holiday on high-priced Eleuthera, head here. This waterfront village, some 9 miles north of Rock Sound, is good for fishing and has a number of guest houses that take in economy-minded tourists who aren't too demanding. This tiny settlement with its many pastel-washed houses is a favorite of artists who have established a small colony here.
The area flourished as a pineapple-export center from the 1870s until the 1940s, when the industry was felled by competition from Hawaii and Cuba. That's when many of the present clapboard homes with their gingerbread trim were constructed. Nowadays an air of nostalgia pervades this old community.
The community's artistic patriarch is a Scottish-Irish sculptor and painter who since 1957 has occupied an oceanfront house on the northern edge of the hamlet. Bearded, psychic, and gracious, Peter MacMillan-Hughes, at his MacMillan-Hughes Gallery and Castle (tel. 242/334-4091), has sold paintings to an impressive array of patrons, including Lord Mountbatten. His Bahamian prints, sculptures, drawings of birds and hand-lettered poems and histories are displayed in many prominent homes. He built the tower of the limestone castle that rises from the center of town, a short walk from his studio. More recently, he added a second tower with stained-glass windows and a new art gallery. Soft-spoken and accessible, Mr. MacMillan-Hughes is the single most interesting tourist attraction at Tarpum Bay. Visitors are welcome to show up at his door during daylight hours from October through June.
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