Sitting in Sol or Sombra at the Bullfights. With origins as old as pagan Spain, the art of bullfighting is the expression of Iberian temperament and passions. Detractors object to the sport as cruel, bloody, violent, hot, and savage. Aficionados, however, understand bullfighting as a microcosm of death, catharsis, and rebirth. These philosophical underpinnings may not be immediately apparent, but if you strive to understand the bullfight, it can be one of the most evocative and memorable events in Spain. Head for the plaza de toros (bullring) in Madrid. Tickets are either sol (sunny side) or sombra (in the shade); you'll pay more to get out of the sun. Observe how the feverish crowds appreciate the ballet of the banderilleros, the thundering fury of the bull, the arrogance of the matador-all leading to "death in the afternoon."

Seeing the Masterpieces at the Prado. It's one of the world's premier art museums, ranking with the Louvre. The Prado is home to some 4,000 masterpieces, many of them acquired by Spanish kings. The wealth of Spanish art is staggering-everything from Goya's Naked Maja to the celebrated Las Meninas (The Maids of Honor) by Velazquez (our favorite). Masterpiece after masterpiece unfolds before your eyes: You can imagine your fate in Hieronymus Bosch's Garden of Earthly Delights or recoil from the horror of Goya's Disasters of War etchings. When the Spanish artistic soul gets too dark, escape to the Italian salons and view canvases by Caravaggio, Fra Angelico, and Botticelli. Be warned, though, that a quick run-through won't suffice: It would take a lifetime to savor the Prado's wonders.

Feasting on Tapas in the Tascas. Tapas, those bite-size portions washed down with wine, beer, or sherry, are reason enough to go to Madrid! Spanish tapas are so good their once-secret recipes have been broadcast around the world, but they always taste better at home. The tapeo is akin to a London pub crawl-hop from one tapas bar to another. Each has a different specialty. Tapas bars, called tascas, are a quintessential Spanish experience, be it in Galicia, Andalusia, Catalonia, or Castile. Originally tapas were cured ham or chorizo (spicy sausage). Today they are likely to include everything--gambas (deep-fried shrimp), anchovies marinated in vinegar, stuffed peppers, a cool, spicy gazpacho, or hake salad. To go really native, try lamb's sweetbreads or bull's testicles. These dazzling spreads will hold you over until the fashionable 10pm dining hour. The best streets for your tasca crawl include Ventura de la Vega, the area around Plaza de Santa Ana or Plaza de Santa Barbara, Cava Baja, or calle de Cuchilleros.

Lounging in an Outdoor Cafi. In sultry summertime, Madrileqos come alive on their terrazas. The drinking and good times can go on until dawn. In glamorous hangouts or on lowly street corners, the cafi scene takes place mainly along an axis shaped by the Paseo de la Castllana, Paseo del Prado, and Paseo de Recoletos. Wander up and down the boulevards and select a spot that appeals to you. For traditional atmosphere, the terrazas at Playa Mayor win out.

Shopping the Rastro. Madrid's flea market represents a tradition that's 500 years old. Savvy shoppers arrive before 7am every Sunday to beat the rush and claim the best merchandise. The teeming place doesn't really get going until about 9am, and then it's shoulder-to-shoulder stretching down calle Ribiera de Curtidores. Real or fake antiques, secondhand clothing, porno films, Franco-era furniture, paintings (endless copies of Velazquez), bullfight posters, old books, religious relics, and plenty of just plain junk, including motorcycles from World War II, are for sale. These streets also contain some of the finest permanent antique shops in Madrid. But beware: Pickpockets are out in full force. More than a few mugging victims have later found their purses here for resale-thoroughly emptied, of course.

Sunday Strolling in the Retiro. Spread across 350 cool acres in sweltering Madrid, Parque de Retiro was originally designed as the gardens of Buen Retiro palace, occupied by Philip IV in the 1630s. In 1767 Charles III opened part of the gardens to the general public. Only after the collapse of Isabella II's monarchy in 1868 did the park become available to all Madrileqos. Statues dot the grounds (a towering 1902 monument to Alfonso XII presides over the lake), which also contain some 15,000 trees, a rose garden, and a few art galleries. The best time for a stroll is Sunday morning before lunch, when vendors hawk their wares, magicians perform their arts, and fortune-tellers read tarot cards. You can even rent a boat and laze away the morning on the lake.

Nursing a Drink at Chicote. The 1930s interior at Madrid's most famous bar looks the same as it did when Hemingway sat here drinking during the Spanish Civil War. Shells might have been flying along the Gran Vma, but the international press corps covering the war drank on. After the war, the crowd of regulars included such screen goddesses as Ava Gardner (always with a bullfighter or two in tow), as well as major writers and artists. By the late 1960s it had degenerated into a pickup bar frequented by prostitutes. But today it has regained the joie de vivre of yore and is one of the smart, sophisticated spots to rendezvous in Madrid.

Experiencing the Movida. We can't tell you exactly how to go about this. Just go to Madrid-the movida will seek you out. Very roughly translated as the "shift" or the "movement," Movida characterizes post-Franco life in Madrid, when Madrileqos threw off the yoke of dictatorship and repression. In a larger context, the Movida is a cultural renaissance affecting all aspects of local life, encompassing a wide range of social projects and progressive causes. Movida is best experienced around midnight, when the town just starts to wake up; the action centers around hipper-than-thou places with names like Bar Cock. Madrileqos hop from club to club as if they're afraid they'll miss out on something if they stay in one place too long. To truly catch a whiff of movida, head for the lively nightlife areas of Chueca, Huertas, and Malasaqa, and the big clubs around calle Arenal.

A Night of Flamenco. Flamenco folk songs (cante) and dances (baile) are an integral part of the Spanish experience. Spend at least one night in a flamenco tavern, listening to the heart-rending laments of gypsy sorrows, tribulations, hopes, and dreams.