Maison Robert has only improved since Jacky Robert returned. The formal dining room was already spectacular, with majestic crystal chandeliers and tall windows. The food equals the setting, classic but dramatic, with unexpected but welcome Asian influences. You might start with a tender, airy Roquefort soufflé or smoked lobster cream soup. Entrees include options you would expect and pleasant surprises--filet mignon is a meat-lover's delight, Dover sole is served à la Meunière, and ostrich medallions are marinated in Asian spices and served with a leek salad. Desserts are impressive, ranging from excellent souffles to heart-stopping chocolate concoctions to upside-down apple tart, served warm with cinnamon sabayon.

On the ground floor is the cozy Ben's Café. It's more casual and less expensive than the upstairs room but also thoroughly French. In the summer, cafe seating spills onto the lovely terrace next to the landmark statue of Benjamin Franklin.