The central gimmick of this outpost of the Swiss chain is its theme-park simulation of a European market. Placed around the tremendous space are more than a dozen food stations where diners line up for pizzas, crepes, sushi, coffee, pastas, omelets, waffles, salads, rotisserie birds, grilled meats, baked goods, and seafood, including freshly opened oysters. Faux grapevines, fake flowers, and an ersatz tree are meant to evoke a Mediterranean setting. Never mind that. This is a playland cafeteria, and the food, much of it prepared to order, ranges from satisfactory to pretty good. Upon entrance, you are handed a "passport," which the servers stamp with the prices of the items ordered; you pay up when you leave. Eat a course at a time or load a tray with a complete meal and take it to the nearby tables. Children are welcome in the designated romper room, and chess and scrabble sets are available for lingerers. The bistro has table service, and two bars serve wine, beer, and spirits. Almost everything is available for takeout.