Stepping into Casa de Matéo feels like wandering into a party in progress, especially on Friday and Saturday evenings, when mariachis come to kick the fiesta up a notch. Get in the mood with a birdbath-size frozen margarita, which arrives with chips and salsa at a center horseshoe bar that's encased with rough terra-cotta tiles. The cheerful staff from Mexico and other Latin American countries lends authenticity. With the generous servings offered here, appetizers can be skipped -- but that would mean missing the plato Mexicano, a sampler of all the starters. Because the plato Mexicano is a meal in itself, some diners may want to stop there -- but that would mean missing the pescado Veracruzano, a whole red snapper quickly marinated and fried and served on a nest of crisp vegetables. The usual burritos and enchiladas, on the other hand, are easy to forget.