The interior of this 125-year-old stone house has a thrown-together quality, with brick walls, old photos of the port, ship models, hanging bundles of herbs, and a candle chandelier that would do justice to the lair of the Phantom of the Opera. The room is so dimly lit that the menu is hard to make out. That's okay. Take a blind poke; you probably won't be disappointed. There isn't anything too odd, and servings are ample. Try a plate of feathery pasta, made right on the premises, like the one that comes with a tumble of clams, mussels, and shrimp. The soupy house risotto supports your choice of seafood or vegetables. By mid-evening, the place is a friendly babble, overseen by the always-present owner.