Avenue du Parc used to be lined with Hellenic fish houses. That culinary population has thinned out, but the top dog remains and still holds to a standard higher than its rivals are ever likely to achieve. Inside, it is what a taverna at a picturesque Aegean fishing port would look like if it had the necessary drachmas -- white plaster walls, bleached wooden floors, Greek vases, blue tiles, and refrigerated cases for the finny main events. The freshest available fish, flown in from wherever they are at peak, are the reason Milos prevails. Show the slightest interest and you'll be taken on a tour of the iced and clear-eyed denizens offered for your pleasure -- Icelandic char, sushi-quality yellowfin tuna, Nova Scotia lobsters, Florida pompano, Mediterranean loup-de-mer. Pick your very own meal or leave it to the chefs. They'll even cook a veal chop if you absolutely insist. The excellent Greek salad is the usual first course, but oh-so-lightly battered soft-shelled crabs are terrific if they're in season. The main course will be along soon, brushed with olive oil and charcoal-grilled -- validation that memorable meals are often the simplest. Trouble is, with drinks, wine, appetizers, and desserts, you can expect to part with well over C$200 (US$143). Those are Toqué! prices and Milos isn't as good as Toqué!.