Wilensky's has been a Montréal tradition since 1932, known for its grilled-meat sandwiches, low prices, curt service, and utter lack of decor. Expect to find nine stools at a counter. This is Duddy Kravitz/Mordecai Richler territory, and the ambience is Early Immigrant. The food selections are limited to a few sandwiches -- not much more than bologna, salami, and mustard thrown on a bun and squashed on a grill -- and hot-dog sandwiches, also squashed. You can wash the sandwiches down with egg creams or drinks jerked from the rank of syrups -- this place has drinks typical of the old-time soda fountain it is. I'm talking tradition here, not cuisine.