Unlikely as it may seem, this is haute cuisine in a gambling casino, ensconced atop four floors of bleeping buzzers, blinking lights, and the crash of cascading jackpots. This elegant entry in Montréal's gastronomic sweepstakes quickly shouldered its way to the top of the pyramid. The designers didn't stint on the trappings, which include mahogany paneling, soaring ceilings, Villery & Boch china, and a lavish deployment of leather and linen. A maitre d' seats you, a captain explains the evening's possibilities, and a waitperson takes your order and serves. All of them are qualified to advise on appropriate wines from the extensive cellar. The menu is re-worked each season, so a dish that dazzled in February might not be there in August. One example of a past triumph was the wrapped round stockade of thin asparagus spears topped with greens and surmounted by the meat of a small lobster claw. Among the rhapsody of main courses are likely to be rosy slices of lamb baked in clay, and sushi-quality tuna barely touched by a flame and served with eggplant compote. The plateau de fromage has several admirable Québec cheeses. Make it all the way to dessert after all that, and the waitress might suggest a dish of praline mousse and chocolate sherbet. A stiffened dress code keeps out guys attired in ripped tank tops -- jackets are now required for men.