The tables on the terrace that wraps around this corner building are filled whenever there's even a slim possibility that a heavy sweater and a bowl of café au lait will fend off frostbite. In summer, the loyalists get to stay out until way past midnight, and in winter, all the same people squeeze inside. Brunch is popular, even if the food is unexceptional, but consider this place any time a snack or a meal is in order. Portions are ample and inexpensive. An easygoing atmosphere prevails, and it's popular with musicians, actors, artists, and journalists, so contrive to look mysterious or celebrated.