Contender for the title of best Thai in town, this spot boasts a panache that sets it a few notches above most of its rivals. It brightens its corner on increasingly fashionable Laurier Avenue with white table linens and sprays of orchids on each table. The host helps with suggestions about the most popular items on the menu. Dumplings in peanut sauce are a well-liked appetizer, and a main event of mixed seafood, composed of squid, scallops, shrimp, crab claws, mussels, and chunks of red snapper, is a favorite. The food is tangy at the least, and menu items are given one to three hot pepper symbols grading hotness. Two printed peppers are about right for most people. A cooling cucumber salad helps, and you'll want a side of sticky rice, too. Everything comes in attractive bowls and platters. There are several wines by the glass -- try the semi-dry Alsatian wine.