536 rue Duluth est (At rue St-Denis)
tel.: 514/281-1116
Location: At rue St-Denis Cuisine: Canadian
Price Category: Moderate CURRENCY CONVERTER
It might seem like this place is selling Beluga caviar at hambourgeois prices, the way this place is packed to the walls 6 nights a week. And though it looks like another of the amiable-but-mediocre storefront restos that line most streets in the Plateau, famed chef Normand Laprise of Toqué! reportedly loves the place. Leave cholesterol concerns at the door. As the name -- translated as "The Pig's Foot" -- suggests, this place is all about slabs of beef, pork, lamb, venison, and duck. "The Big Happy Pig's Chop," more than a pound of meat, is emblematic. Meats are roasted to a falling-off-the-bone turn in the brick oven surviving from a previous pizza joint. No subterfuge here: Most dishes have only four or five easily identifiable ingredients, in balanced proportions. They do get clever with one pervasive product: foie gras. It comes in several combinations, including with ground beef, with flan, or stuffed into a ham hock. No way I'd suggest the one with chocolate, but the version in concert with poutine makes one reconsider negative impressions of that classic Québecoise comfort food. Sugar pie is the only fitting finisher.
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