At the east end of the old town's liveliest nightlife strip, this supremely casual cafe-pizzeria is as loud as any dance club, with patrons shouting over the booming stereo music. None of this discourages a single soul -- even on a Monday night. Chefs in straw hats in the open kitchen in back crank out 17 different kinds of pizza -- thin-crusted, with unusual toppings that work -- and about as many pasta versions, which are less interesting. Bountiful platters of fish and meats, often in the form of brochettes, make appetizers unnecessary. Keep this spot in mind when kids are in tow; there's no way they could make enough noise to bother other customers. Outside tables are available in warm weather. Brunch is served Sundays, 10:30am to 3pm.