This is one of several bistros that wrap around the intersection of rues St-Paul and Sault-au-Matelot. Most are inexpensive and cater more to locals than to tourists. Mussels are staples at Québec restaurants, prepared in the Belgian manner, with bowls of frites on the side. Here, they come with 14 different sauces and, with soup or salad, cost only C$18 (US$13) -- with free seconds. That the chef cares about what he sends out of his kitchen is evident. His food is vibrant and flavorful, served at banquettes along the walls and at tables both inside and out on the sidewalk. Piaf and Aznavour clones warble laments on the stereo. This is a place to leaf through a book, sip a double espresso, and meet neighbors.