Opened in 1872, this landmark is one of Paris's leading seafood restaurants. It's so devoted to the fine art of preparing fish that other food is strictly banned from the menu (if you happen to dislike fish, there's a limited number of meat dishes). Much of the seafood is flown in directly from Brittany daily. Examples are a craquant (a crispy version of crayfish) in its own herb salad, lobster soup with coconut, grilled sea-wolf filet with a fricassee of artichokes and Provençal pistou, a grilled turbot salad on a bed of artichokes with tarragon, and poached turbot with hollandaise sauce, served with leeks in vinaigrette. In all these dishes, nothing (no excess butter, spices, or salt) is allowed to interfere with the natural flavor of the sea. Be prepared for some unusual food -- the staff will help translate the menu items for you. The decor consists of an unusual collection of Lalique crystal fish displayed in artificial aquariums. Even more unusual are the men's and women's restrooms, now classified as historic monuments; the commodes were designed by the Art Nouveau master cabinetmaker Majorelle in the early 1900s.