Fans say this bistrot de luxe is a less expensive, less majestic version of Le Grand Véfour. The setting is grand enough to impress a business client and lighthearted enough to attract a roster of VIPs. You'll be ushered to a table on one of two levels, amid polished mirrors, red-leather banquettes, and memorabilia of long-ago Paris. The emphasis is on the cuisine of central France, especially Burgundy, as shown by the liberal use of wines in favorites like cassoulet of Burgundian snails with bacon and tomatoes, boeuf bourguignonne (braised beef in red-wine sauce) with tagliatelle, terrine of parslied ham, wild-duckling filet with seasonal berries, salmon steak with green peppercorns, and ragout of wild hare in Pouilly aspic. Also wonderful is the roasted Bresse chicken with dauphinois potatoes. Dessert may include a clafoutis (pastry) of apricots and raspberries sautéed in sugar, as well as caramelized rice pudding. Owner/chef André Genin is an author of children's books, some on the techniques of French cuisine.