A LYON LE COCHON EST ROI! proclaims the sign. Pig may be king at this fin de siècle bistro (with walls molded with roses and garlands, brass globe lamps, potted palms, and etched glass) just behind La Bourse, but the competent kitchen staff does everything well. After eating here, you'll know why Lyon is called the gastronomic capital of France. Everything is washed down with Beaujolais. Launch your repast with one of the large Lyonnais sausages or a chicory salad with bacon and slices of hot sausages. Poached eggs in red-wine sauce and grilled pig's feet still appear on the menu. Pike dumplings are always prepared to perfection and served classically in white-butter sauce. The upside-down apple pie with crème fraîche is the dessert of choice.