One of Paris's most talented chefs, Bernard Pacaud, draws world attention with his vivid flavors and expert culinary skill. Expect culinary perfection but a cool reception at this early-17th-century town house in Le Marais, with three high-ceilinged salons whose decor recalls an Italian palazzo. Pacaud's tables are nearly always filled with satisfied diners who come back again and again to see where his imagination will take him next. The dishes change seasonally and may include fricassee of Breton lobster with chestnuts, served with a purée of pumpkin; turbot filet braised with endive, served with a julienne of black truffles; or one of our favorite dishes in all Paris, poulard de Bresse demi-deuil homage à la Mère Brazier (chicken roasted with black truffles and truffled vegetables in a style invented by a Lyonnais matron after World War II). An award-winning dessert is the tarte fine sablée served with bitter chocolate and vanilla-flavored ice cream.