This is the best-known restaurant on the "Street of the Rose Bushes." Albert Goldenberg, the doyen of Jewish restaurateurs in Paris, long ago moved to choicer surroundings (69 av. de Wagram, 17e), but his brother Joseph has remained here. Dining is on two levels, one for nonsmokers. Look for the collection of samovars, the white fantail pigeon in a wicker cage, and the interesting paintings. The carpe farcie (stuffed carp) is a preferred selection, but the beef goulash is also good. We like the eggplant moussaka and the pastrami. The menu also offers Israeli wines, but M. Goldenberg admits they're not as good as French wine. Live Yiddish music is presented every night beginning at 9pm, and special menus are available during Jewish holidays -- reservations are a must.