The setting is a tawny-colored enclave beneath an etched-glass Art Deco ceiling, with luxurious touches inspired by the 1930s. Since great French chef Joel Robuchon's departure, there have been a series of young chefs who have filled in. The newest is very talented Christophe Dié, who took over in February of 2003. Time will tell whether Mr. Dié will influence the menu with creative ideas of his own, but until then, this restaurant perpetuates the Robuchon legend with an almost slavish devotion to Robuchon's time-tested specialties. Examples include caramelized sea urchins in aspic with fennel-flavored cream sauce, eggplant-stuffed cannelloni with tuna filets and olive oil, and crisp-fried crayfish served with basil. There is also a selection of dishes revived from the Escoffier-inspired tenets of grand 19th-century cuisine, including spit-roasted Bresse chicken in cream sauce with baby vegetables; merlan Colbert, consisting of deep-fried filets of whiting in an herb-flavored butter sauce; and (during the autumn game season) lièvre la royale du Senateur Couteaux, wild hare cooked in a mixture of red wine and its own blood, named for a famed 19th-century gastronome, Senator Couteaux.