This restaurant is a bit hard to find, but once you arrive (after walking through passageway after passageway), you'll see that fin de siècle Paris lives on. It opened in 1860 and has changed its decor very little since. The house specialty is la formidable choucroute (a heaping mound of sauerkraut with boiled ham, bacon, and sausage) for two. The onion soup and sole meunière are good, as is the warm foie gras and guinea hen with lentils. Look for the plats du jour, ranging from roast pigeon to veal fricassee with sorrel.