Few other moderate restaurants are as hotly pursued by Parisians as this nine-table holdover from another age. For at least a century after the French Revolution, fishermen from Dieppe used this place as a springboard for carousing and cabaret watching after delivering their fish to Les Halles market. Since the late 1960s the charming, outspoken M. and Mme Cullere have run this restaurant. They have become distinctive, albeit slightly eccentric, neighborhood fixtures. The Holy Grail at La Grille is an entire turbot prepared tableside with an emulsified white-butter sauce. Other recommended dishes are seafood terrine, boeuf bourguignonne, and marinated sardine filets. The high-calorie, high-satisfaction desserts include chocolate mousse and vanilla custard. (The restaurant name derives from the 200-year-old wrought-iron grills in front, classified as national treasures and among the best examples of their kind in Paris.)