One of Paris's most acclaimed chefs, Alain Dutournier lures some of the most fashionable palates of Paris to this unchic location in the 12th arrondissement. His parents mortgaged their own inn to allow him to open this early-1900s bistro. At first he got little business, but word eventually spread of a savant in the kitchen who practiced authentic cuisine moderne. His wife, Nicole, is the welcoming hostess, and the wine steward has distinguished himself with his exciting cave containing several little-known wines and a fabulous collection of Armagnacs. It's estimated the wine cellar has some 800 varieties. Start with fresh duck foie gras cooked in a terrine or Gascony cured ham cut from the bone. The best main courses include fresh tuna with braised cabbage, a superb cassoulet, and chicken from the Chalosse region of Landes, which Dutournier roasts and serves in its own drippings.