This is where Paris's great chef of the 1980s, Joël Robuchon, made his mark. Now in charge is Robuchon's longtime second in command, Benoit Guichard, clearly inspired by his master but an imaginative chef in his own right. Guichard has chosen pale-green panels and pink banquettes (referred to as "Italo-New Yorkaise") for a backdrop to his brief but well-chosen menu. Lunches can be simple, though each dish, like a beautifully seasoned salmon tartare, is done to perfection. Classic technique and an homage to tradition characterize the cuisine -- John Dory with celery and fresh ginger; pigeon sausage with foie gras, pistachios, and mâche lettuce; and beef shoulder so tender it had obviously been braising for hours. A particularly earthy dish celebrates various parts of the sow, blending the tail and cheeks on a platter with walnuts and fresh herbs. Finish with a tarte tatin.