Not to be confused with a bistro of the same name in the 2nd arrondissement, this is a worthy choice. It has flourished since 1926, despite an obscure location. The setting has changed little -- cheerfully harassed waiters barge through a dining room sheathed with old-fashioned paneling and etched glass, and savory odors emerge from the hysterically busy kitchen. Two enduring specialties are leg of lamb with white kidney beans, and standing rib roast with herbs (especially thyme) in its own juices and a gratin of potatoes. Preceding these might be Baltic herring in cream sauce, cheese ravioli, cabbage soup, or a wide selection of sausages and pork products that taste best when eaten with bread, butter, and sour pickles. The adventurous French love the calf's head and the braised veal trotters, both served cold in vinaigrette.