The impresario behind this attractive baby bistro is Jacques Cagna, who established his role as a gastronomic star long ago from his headquarters in the Latin Quarter . The chic place is popular for business lunches and dinners, also drawing residents and shoppers from the grand neighborhood. It's ringed with light-colored wood paneling and banquettes with patterns of pink and green. At lunch, the menu includes a main course and a starter or dessert; the pricier dinner meal includes a starter, main course, and dessert. Either way, you'll have many choices in each category. Examples are wild-mushroom flan with red-wine sauce, a salad of sweetbreads and crayfish, and rack of lamb with parsley and sage, with apple beignets and champagne-drenched pineapple-and-mango soup for dessert.