St-Germain knows no finer dining than at Jacques Cagna, a sophisticated restaurant in a 17th-century town house with massive timbers, burnished paneling, and 17th-century Dutch paintings. Jacques Cagna is one of the best classically trained chefs in Paris, though he has become a half-apostle to cuisine moderne. This is evident in his delectable carpaccio of pearly sea bream with caviar-lavished céleric rémoulade (celery root in mayonnaise with capers, parsley, gherkins, spring onions, chervil, chopped tarragon, and anchovy essence). Also sublime are the carpaccio of dorado; roasted crayfish with fresh herbs; fried foie gras of duckling served with caramelized fruits of the season (in winter, that usually means pears and quince); standing roast of veal with a lime-and-ginger sauce; and line-caught sea bass roasted with baby vegetables and fresh herbs.