Aficionados of the way France used to be seek out this place, and if you're looking for the kind of cuisine that used to satisfy the grands intellectuels of the Latin Quarter in the 1960s, you might find it appealing. It seats only 20 people, each of whom is treated to the savoir-faire of Auvergne-born Jean-Claude Gramond and his charming wife, Jeannine. Listed in purple ink that's duplicated on an old-time mimeograph machine, the menu items may include a marinade of mushrooms with coriander; a navarin (rich stew) of lamb with scotch beans; roasted grouse with figs; scallops cooked with white wine, leeks, and shallots; partridge (this is increasingly rare and expensive) served with an émincé (shredded mixture) of cabbage; sautéed pheasant with a Calvados-flavored cream sauce; and two different preparations of rabbit, one of which is a civet served Alsatian-style, with noodles and a sauce made from a mixture of red wine and the rabbit's own blood. Try the soufflé Grand Marnier for dessert. The wine list is carefully balanced with lots of fine bottles from the 1970s and 1980s, and fairly priced.