This is Paris's most popular baby bistro, operated by Jacques Cagna, whose expensive restaurant is across the street. The informal place features a postmodern decor with high-tech lighting and black lacquer chairs, and the simply prepared food is very good and uses high-quality ingredients. It includes several types of ravioli, paté of duckling en croûte with foie gras, friture d'éperlans (tiny fried freshwater fish), and smoked Scottish salmon with spinach. M. Cagna has added pork cheeks, based on an old family recipe. His Barbary duckling in red-wine sauce is incomparable.