This battered veteran attracts those seeking the Left Bank Paris of yesteryear. The bistro, opened more than 130 years ago, was once the rendezvous of the carpenters whose guild was next door. Nowadays young men bring their dates here. Though the food isn't especially imaginative, it's well prepared in the tradition of cuisine bourgeoise -- hearty but not effete. Appetizers include paté of duck and rabbit terrine. Especially recommended is the roast duck with olives. The plats du jour recall French home cooking: salt pork with lentils, pot-au-feu, and stuffed cabbage. The wine list has a large selection of Bordeaux, including Château Gaussens.