Crémerie Polidor is the most traditional bistro in the Odéon area, serving cuisine familiale. Its name dates from the early 1900s, when it specialized in frosted cream desserts, but the restaurant itself can trace its history back to 1845. The Crémerie was André Gide's favorite, and Joyce, Hemingway, Valéry, Artaud, and Kerouac also dined here. The place is still frequented largely by students and artists, who head for the rear. Peer beyond the lace curtains and brass hat racks to see drawers where repeat customers lock up their cloth napkins. Overworked but smiling waitresses with frilly aprons and T-shirts bearing the likeness of old mère Polidor serve the 19th-century cuisine. Try the pumpkin soup followed by boeuf bourguignonne, Basque-style chicken, or blanquette de veau. For dessert, get a chocolate, raspberry, or lemon tart -- the best in all Paris.