Don't expect to find meat at this temple of seafood -- burly and genteel chef and co-owner Gérard Allamandou refuses to feature it on his menu. Everything about La Cagouille testifies to a modern version of the culinary arts of La Charente, the flat sandy district hugging the Atlantic south of Bordeaux. In a trio of simple oak-sheathed dining rooms with marble-topped tables, you'll sample seafood prepared as simply and naturally as possible, with no fancy sauces or elaborate cooking techniques. Allamandou's preferred fish is red mullet, which might appear sautéed in a bland oil or baked in rock salt. The name of the place derives from the regional symbol of La Charente: the sea snail, whose preparation is elevated to a fine culinary art. Look for a vast assemblage of all-French, mostly white wines and at least 150 cognacs. During the summer there's a partially concealed terrace for outside dining.