The setting is a bistro with banquettes the color of aged Bordeaux wine, congenially harried service, and unexpectedly good food. The prix fixe presents a choice of at least 10 starters, 10 main courses, and about a dozen fresh desserts or selections from a cheese tray. The inspiration is Yves Camdeborde's, known for his training at the Hôtel de Crillon. The menu changes weekly (sometimes daily) according to the availability of the ingredients, but examples that particularly impressed us include cream of walnut soup that's poured over a flan of foie gras; roasted Pyrénéen lamb served with thyme and a confit of roasted garlic; filet of wild boar with a red-wine sauce; and an always-popular platter of fried goose liver served on toasted slices of spice bread.