The venue inhabits a large space on the top floor of the Centre Pompidou, with views through bay windows over most of the city. The decor is minimalist and postmodern, incorporating brushed aluminum and stainless steel. Tables are made from sandblasted glass, lit from below, and accessorized with hyper-modern cutlery. Menu items are mostly continental, with hints of Asia. Some combinations come as a surprise -- macaroni with lobster, for example. Others, like roasted ostrich steak, are exotic. Some of the best items on the menu are the roasted scallops with lemon butter, a tuna steak with coriander, and a luscious version of sole meunière. To access the place, head for the exterior elevator just to the left of the Centre Pompidou's main entrance. Unless you verify your reservation to the security guard, they might not let you up.