Ladurée, acclaimed since 1862 as one of Paris's grand cafes (located near La Madeleine), is now installed on the Champs-Elysées, adding a touch of class to this neighborhood of fast-food places. This offshoot expanded in 1999 and caters to an international set wearing everything from Givenchy to Gap. Expect a stylish, somewhat chaotic venue that changes from tearoom to full-fledged restaurant at least twice during the course of any day. The Belle Epoque setting is ideal for sampling Ladurée's celebrated macaroons -- not the sticky coconut version familiar to Americans, but two almond meringue cookies, flavored with vanilla, coffee, strawberry, pistachio, or other flavor, stuck together with butter cream. The menu of talented chefs is constantly adjusted to take advantage of the freshest daily ingredients, and may include a crisp and tender pork filet with potato-and-parsley purée and marinated red mullet filets on a salad of cold ratatouille. If you're looking for a midafternoon pick-me-up to accompany your tea and macaroons, consider a plaisir sucré, a chocolate confection artfully decorated with spun sugar. The service isn't always efficient.