You'll either admire this restaurant for its sense of cutting-edge glamour, or become irritated with its inflated sense of grandeur, its artfully vague lack of organization, and in some cases, its genuinely silly sense of chichi. Depending on when you arrive, your meal will be served either on the street level or within the cellar, where a well-publicized team of hot designers (including Jacques Garcia and Ora-Ito) have installed a postmodern decor that's coy, minimalist, and thought provoking. An "African-looking" bar is accessorized with tribal motifs, and replicas of beds are scattered across the lounge-disco area. Recommended dishes include crab claws with a sweet-and-sour sauce; fried slices of foie gras with green asparagus tips; pasta shells with Parmesan cream sauce; and T-bone of veal with a ginger-flavored lime sauce.

Night owls with a sense of humor may enjoy dining here late, then descending into the club area for dancing and people-watching on the phosphorescent day-glo floor. There's a cover charge of 20€ on Friday and Saturday after 11:30pm.