Set within one of Paris's most stratospherically expensive neighborhoods, this old-time brasserie has prices that, in comparison to those charged by many of its nearby competitors, seem particularly modest. Founded in 1923, and with an old-fashioned bistro decor (mirrors, brass hardware, polished paneling, banquettes) that hasn't changed much since the Jazz Age, it has a pair of long and narrow dining rooms, the first of which is known as le wagon (the dining car) by some of its clients. Come here for the kind of hearty, flavorful food that your great-grandmother (had she been from the Avergne and lived in the central highlands of France) would have prepared for a holiday meal around 1910. Sauces here are likely to have been enriched with bone marrow; pork chitterlings are laboriously processed into earthy versions of andouillettes; and accompaniments to a main course might include a petit farçou, a thick crêpe enriched with such green leafy vegetables as chard, spinach, and leeks. Lamb here is superb, especially the slow-cooked haunches, cooked with rosemary until the meat is literally falling off the bone. Wines are strong and heady, cheeses (Cantal, Roquefort, and others) are fresh from farms in central France and appropriately satisfying.