At place de la Madeleine stands one of the city's most popular sights -- not the church, but Fauchon, a hyper-upscale mega-delicatessen that thrives within a city famous for its finicky eaters. It's divided into three divisions that include an épicerie (for jams, crackers, pastas, and exotic canned goods); a pâtissier (for breads, pastries, and chocolates); and a traiteur (for cheeses, terrines, patés, caviar, and fruits). Prices are steep, but the inventories -- at least to serious foodies -- are fascinating. At some (but not all) of the counters, you'll indicate to attendants what you want from behind glass display cases, and get an electronic ticket, which you'll carry to a caisse (cash register). Surrender your tickets, pay the tally, then return to the counter to pick up your groceries. In other cases, you simply load up your shopping basket with whatever you want and pay for your purchases at a cash register, just as you would at any grocery store.

On the same premises, Fauchon has a restaurant, Brasserie Fauchon, and a tea salon, which showcases the pastry-making talents of its chefs. Among the many offerings is a Paris-Brest, a ring in the shape of a bicycle wheel that's loaded with pastry cream, almond praline, buttercream, and hazelnut paste capped with almonds.