Don Hewitson, a connoisseur of fine wines for more than 30 years, presides over this treasure trove of blissful fermentations. The ever-changing wine list features an excellent selection of Beaujolais crus from Alsace, 30 choices from Australia, 30 champagnes, and a good selection of California labels. The most successful dish on the menu is a yeast-raised cheese-and-ham pie with a cream-cheese-like filling and crisp, well-buttered pastry -- not your typical quiche. There's also chicken-and-apple salad, Lancashire hot pot (an herbed stew made with lamb chops and lamb kidney), Mediterranean prawns with garlic and asparagus, lamb in ale, and tandoori chicken.