Although challengers come and go, this luxe dining room remains the number-one choice in London for classical French cuisine. The service is faultless and the ambience is chic without being stuffy. There's always something special coming out of the kitchen of Burgundy-born Michel Roux. The menu changes constantly, depending both on what fresh produce is available and the whims of the chef. But the cuisine always remains classically French, although not of the "essentially old-fashioned bourgeois repertoire" as some critics suggest. Try some of the signatures: soufflé Suissesse, papillote of smoked salmon, or whole Bresse chicken with truffles and a Madeira cream sauce. Game is often served, depending on availability. Other menu options include an herb-seasoned cassoulet of snails with frog thighs, mousseline of lobster in champagne sauce, pavé of braised turbot with red Provençal wine and smoked bacon, and filet of red snapper with caviar and oyster-stuffed tortellini. Lighter, more modern dishes include red mullet with a cockle risotto and poached lobster flavored with star anise.

Desserts, including the sablé of pears and chocolate, are sublime. The wine cellar is among the most interesting in London, with many Burgundies and Bordeaux. The menu exceptional is, in essence, a tasting menu for the entire table. It usually consists of four to five small courses, followed by one or two desserts and coffee.