This place buzzes during pre- and post-theater hours with foodies anxious to sample the wares, ranging from oysters to ostrich, of chef Richard Lee. Artfully spartan, with the kind of ultra-modern, angular, minimalist design that you might expect in a stylish restaurant in Milan, this restaurant is the ideal spot for lunch or dinner between avant-garde media moguls. Because of its location in the Granada Television building, meetings like that often occur.

Many dishes are cutting edge, such as a tasty sautéed chile-flavored squid with bok choi, made even more heavenly with a tamarind dressing. But, perhaps for his own amusement, Lee peppers the menu with old-fashioned pre-World War II dishes such as faggot (highly seasoned squares of pigs' liver, pork, onion, herbs, and nutmeg -- bound with an egg and baked wrapped in a pig's caul) with bubble-and-squeak (cabbage and potatoes). Perhaps Lee doesn't want his English patrons to forget the way cookery used to be. The sorbets are a nice finish to a meal, especially the mango and pink-grapefruit version. Of course, if you're ravenous, there's the velvety-smooth amaretto cheesecake with coffee sauce. Service is a delight, and the set lunch and pre- and post-theater fixed-price menus offer incredible value.