Gordon Ramsay is one of the city's most innovative and talented chefs. He's also the most controversial, and always seems to be in the headlines, as was the case when he had a brawl with a pastry cook on a Soho street over a fallen banana pudding. With a loud mouth, plenty of talk riddled with "F -- -in' 'ell!" and loads of sharp knives, plus extreme talent, he is hailed by some of the leading food critics of the world as "the best chef of his generation." London is rushing to sample Mr. Ramsay's wares. Lord Andrew Lloyd Webber has visited and acclaimed Ramsay as one of Europe's grandest chefs, saying "you can get better food here than anywhere else in London." There may be no restaurant in London with more myths spinning around it. One legend is that serious gourmets fly across the Atlantic nightly to dine here. Another is that you need to book years ahead. Finally, it's been said that the excitement of the evening might be when Gordon rushes out of the kitchen wielding a meat cleaver.

Every dish from this kitchen is gratifying, reflecting subtlety and delicacy without any sacrifice of the food's natural essence. Try, for example, Ramsay's celebrated cappuccino of white beans with grated truffles. His appetizers are likely to dazzle: a salad of crispy pigs' trotters with calves' sweetbreads, fried quail eggs, and a cream-flavored vinaigrette; or foie gras three ways -- sautéed with quince, mi-cuit with an Earl Grey consommé, or pressed with truffle peelings. From here, you can grandly proceed to filet of brill poached in red wine, grilled filet of red mullet on a bed of caramelized endives, or caramelized Challandaise duck cooked with dates. Desserts are equally stunning, especially the pistachio soufflé with chocolate sorbet, and the passion-fruit-and-chocolate parfait. You can also sample Ramsay's extraordinary fare at Gordon Ramsay's at Claridge's . Only fixed-price menus are served.