Rowley Leigh, the chef here, has attracted a devoted following of regulars. But word of his delicious cuisine is spreading, and now more and more visitors are rushing here to sample some of his signature dishes, such as griddled foie gras on a sweet-corn pancake, and scallops with pea purée and mint vinaigrette. His slow-braised lamb shank is one of the best dishes of its kind. Also look for Leigh's innovative seasonal dishes. The chef has a marvelous way with grouse, venison, roast partridge, and sea bass. He grills scallops to golden perfection, and goat-cheese mousse and olives enhance even the simplest chicken dish. Everybody from pop stars to Kensington dowagers flock to this animated, noisy bistro. The set lunch is one of the best values in the area. Save room for the steamed chocolate pudding with custard. Harking back to olde England, the chef still serves rhubarb fool or a summer trifle flavored with red fruits and liqueur.