Don't you love the name of award-winning chef Andrew Magson's Soho eatery? The catch of the day can be chargrilled or pan-fried as you desire. We know of no better place in London to sample seafood favorites enjoyed by Brits back in the days of Sir Winston Churchill -- we're talking smoked haddock kedgeree (a mixture of fish, rice, and hard-boiled eggs), cockles, whelks, steamed mussels, smoky grilled sardines, and the like. We like to go when the Dover sole is brought in. This eclectic menu includes fish flown all the way from the U.S. and Australia. Unlike some of the soggy chips (fries) at nearby dives, the ones here are crisp and fluffy. Our moist-fleshed sea bream, served with a crisp skin, made us want to "hasten ye back" to the restaurant the next night. From grandma's pantry comes a warm chocolate brownie to finish off the meal.